What Are You Workin' On?

This project began with ideas I’d wanted to implement from years of magazine articles, many summers on a tractor, junk from around the farm, and a couple TikToks from a college buddy.

Being more budget friendly than conventional 4x4 platforms, along with the inherent uniqueness of this build, appeals to both me and my kids. The challenge of fabricating a 1200lb rig on 42” tires also appeals to the kid in me, harkening back to monster trucks of my childhood.

Plans for the build include an AMR500 roots style blower, 5.38 gears, and I’m currently adding four-wheel steering. This should wow spectators at local parades, as well as anyone out on the trail. 

The only parts original to a lawnmower are a Briggs and Stratton 16hp opposed twin engine and the original body. Initially I’d constructed a ladder frame and utilized the original peerless transaxle. It was short lived, and I replaced it with an automotive transmission. I’ve since upgraded yet again to a 1-5/8” chromoly tube chassis and an AX5 Jeep Wrangler transmission to feed the Suzuki Samurai axles. The front steer axle is flipped to work with the NP231 transfer case, while cut and flipped 1/4 elliptical Jeep YJ springs hold everything up. With the 42” powered implement tires, this monstrosity boasts ground clearance of 15” under the differentials.

My 1st vehicle was a '52 Studebaker pickup when I was 19. Now I am retired and had a 1000 sq ft shop built in my backyard. I found a '52 Studebaker pickup in southern Washington that wasn't running and decided it would be my retirement hot rod. I am using a '94 Dodge Dakota chassis, a crate LS3 drivetrain with a 6L80E six speed trans, and a Ford 8.8 rear end. One night, a cordless lithium battery on a charger failed, and burned down my shop. The Studebaker was parked next to the shop and was charred down the driver's side. As I work towards having the shop rebuilt, I decided not to let this tragedy stop my dream. I purchased another Dakota (not running), this one a '95, as my next chassis donor. I’m starting over when the new shop is finished. 45 years of tool and equipment acquisition gone in the fire, but I won't let that stop me!

One day, the idea popped into my head that I really wanted a Checker Marathon, and I wanted to build it into a true gasser (the first in the world to my knowledge). I’ve always been intrigued by the A11/A12 Checkers and loved the utilitarian look about them. They look like someone blended a ‘58 Chevy and a ‘58 Rambler together, except using all the worst parts. A few months after I had the idea, this basket case of a one-owner, non-taxi ‘73 dropped into my lap. After some haggling, I got the car for $900 and the TH400 that was in it, even got the original title from ‘73!

Once I got it home, I realized I now own one of the worst Checkers that still had 4 wheels.

The driver’s side frame rail had rotted in half just under the toe board, along with the coil spring jutting up through the bucket. Even the steering box had ripped out of the frame. Body wise, the exterior shell was decent, as in, everything was there. The floors, however, were rotted, patched, and rotted again.

Knowing the pile of work ahead, I just started plucking away. I braced the body and removed it from the chassis. Luckily the rear ⅓ of the chassis was usable, meaning I only had to build the forward ⅔’s. Seeing as my plan is to build a gasser, I wanted a straight front axle. Also, I want to build it on a budget, so the Speedway axle kit for $500 was out. Instead, I found a 2WD XJ Cherokee axle for $150 and bought the “Nova” straight axle spring kit from Speedway.

With the plan set, I bought 8 feet of 2x5 .120 wall rectangular tubing and 6 feet of 2x3 .120 wall rectangular tubing and began to cut, mockup, cut some more, and weld up the tubing to form the new 70% of the chassis. This was the first heavy fabrication project I’ve ever had, so I took my time and advice from those smarter than me to build the chassis. Next was to hang the axle; using the rear end, I squared the front axle at the 120” wheelbase, set the springs up and welded the perches in to have an initial caster measurement of 10 degrees.

Drivetrain wise, I knew I wanted a Big Block Chevy and a 4-speed. I picked a Gen IV 454 up for $600 and was pleased to see it has 781 heads. I was less impressed when I tore it down to see the cam wiped, an improperly aligned thrust bearing, and the #1 rod journal on the crank that had self-machined at least 0.10” off it. At least I could use the block to mount the motor plates in the chassis!

Keeping with the budget, I found a Borg Warner Super T-10 from a mid-70’s F-body (w-code ratio) for $400, a Lakewood scatter bellhousing for $150, and a set of good Eagle H-beam rods with 0.060 over SRP +10cc forged pistons for $500. I want the big block done right, so I’m taking my time to have it machined and collect parts as my budget allows. Ultimately, it will be a 10.0:1 468 cu in with a tunnel ram and a matched set of 1850 Holley 600’s that I found for $125. For the time being, I’ll run my AFR headed 350 in it with the corresponding front motor plate as a shake down power plant.

Now onto the body. Wanting the gasser look with wide meats out back, I bought a set of Tri-5 Chevy radiused wheel arches and patched them into the rear quarters, taking care to blend the lip of the arch into the factory bodyline that formed the original wheel opening. I also had to hand form a lot of patch panels, ranging from small to the entire upper edge of the right rear quarter. With the looks coming along, it was time to tackle the floor. Knowing that I couldn’t do the job myself, I towed the car to my friend’s garage, and we began regretting almost all our life decisions. We decided to brace the body further and cut the entire floor out along with what was left of the inner/outer rockers. My buddy then hand-made hat channels and inner rockers, I fabricated inner kick panel replacements, and we got to work setting the body in its final location before building the floor structure. We made the floor out of 3 pieces, a full sheet per side, formed and bead rolled, with a custom tunnel made in my buddy’s metal brake. For the first time in at least 30 years, the car’s body was solidly attached to the chassis.

 The time came to bring it home and get it to its current state. I finished the rear of the floor and fabricated new inner side panels for the rear along with a custom “gasser” style hood scoop. It’s been a pile of work, but it’s been absolutely worth it to save this car from the crusher. I’ve made this much progress in 8 months while also working my day job as an over the road trucker, and I’m fairly confident it’ll fire up for the first time by January! The name of the car is “Fare Enough” inspired by the history of Checkers in the Taxi world, and the fact that I’m getting it built well enough to function safely and have fun without breaking the bank.

It’s still what I consider a budget build, I have about $4500 into the car at this point (including the purchase price), building basically from the ground up to a solid platform that just needs a simple fuel system, brakes, clutch setup and other minor trinkets.